September 14: The drive to Maine

Sorry for the long wait, but going back to work just one day after coming back from the trip really delayed things such as processing the pictures quite a bit. And the backlog at work also made me mentally too tired to work on this in the evenings. But finally I have made some progress.

Day 1:

We left home at 5 am to try to beat the rush hour in Montreal. That just shows you how much can change in 13 years! Rush hour with delays was well underway before 7 am! After some stop-and-go traffic on the 40, we took the 13 to the 20 and then crossed the Champlain Bridge onto the south shore, all the while wondering if the bridge is really safe.  Reports are conflicting, and the debate continues......

Once on the south shore we soon entered the hills of Quebec’s Eastern Townships, the hilltops shrouded in low hanging clouds. Wisps of cloud hung in front of the mountains in the same way that you usually only see from an airplane window

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At the border I got to exchange my kiwi for a handout about what kind of fruits you can bring into the United States for a snack, but I got to keep my peaches. The customs officer has a whole pile of confistcated fruit, that will probably end up in the garbage. Ironically, just before leaving that morning, I stuffed this fruit in a lunch bag with some granola bars, thinking it would be rotten (and thus go to waste) by the time we got back.

We cruised through Vermont, lamenting the fact that it is impossible to stop at the best vistas to photograph them. There is no real shoulder, and the road winds and curves along a mountain side. It would just be too dangerous, as traffic would not be able to see us beforehand. Lovely villages and towns lie nestled against hillsides and the white clapboard and red brick buildings stand out picturesquely against their green surroundings in the bright sunshine. Here are some examples:

We didn't see quite as much red as in this picture.

The villages in this picture are far away.

For the first part of our trip, we took the same road as last year, but this time we budgeted time to explore Franconia State Park in New Hampshire. Just looking at the website now, I realize that we are far from done exploring this park. Last year we were concerned about the time it would take to get to Plymouth, so we only stayed for 15 minutes, and regretted that ever since. This trip we budgeted some more time and we hiked a bit of trail along the Pemigewasset River (more a stream there) and speculated if the piles of sticks and branches we kept seeing at bottlenecks were deposited by the rushing river in spring, or if there is beaver activity in the water. In the end we did see some gnawed tree stumps, and we think it is probably both.

 Grawed tree stump near the stream.

 

Ed en Willem? (Sorry, you have to be Dutch to get that.)

The top of the mountain is bare sand coloured rock. Along the paved portion of the path we found a 300 ton boulder that (according to the sign) fell from the mountain in 1997, cutting a path of destruction through the trees and coming to rest just next to the path, stopped by a smaller boulder already lying there. The rock has not developed that weathered mossy look yet, and still has the lighter bleached colour of the mountaintop. It looks oddly out of place. 

 All sharp corners and bleached colour still.

 The bare top it came from.

Along the path we saw various examples of trees growing on top of rocks, making us wonder if the soil washed away around the rocks, or by what other process this happened. Aware of the time, and that we could easily spend many more hours there in the park, we chose to return to the car and go on.

 Determination! (I see a foot...)

A short distance further down the highway we saw a second stop, this one marked with "parking for basin". Intrigued, we stopped again. We walked a short, partially paved path along a section of the Pemigewasset, following the signs to "the basin". All along the path the river has carved an impressive channel in the rock that has been worn rounded and smooth by al that water. I can't recall ever seeing such clean and clear water in nature anywhere. The land beside the river is different from the rest of the forest and shows clearly how this must be quite the torrent in spring when melting snow runs off the mountains. Tree roots are all on the surface, the soil appears to have washed away between them, and significant secondary channels (dry at the moment) are carved in the ground between the path and the river.

 Beautiful crystal clear water..........

....which becomes quite the torrent in spring.

Soon we come to a bridge over the stream. A small whirlpool is wearing a hollow space into the rock on the side of the river. We continued and spot what we have named "the worry tree. All its roots are in an anxious knot. How did it get to be like that? Is its rock missing, or is there that much erosion?

 The small whirlpool. Maybe 5 foot in diameter.

 The "worry tree". Its rock must be gone.

Further down the trail, we finally arrived at "basin", a large whirlpool that has been carving itself into the rock (again according to the sign) for some 10,000 years now. It is quite impressive, and the first thing it reminds you of is an amphitheater.

The basin, a good 20 foot across.

 

The channel worn into the rock.

Once back on the interstate, we took the exit for the Kancamagus highway, which is supposed to be a scenic route. Initially we passed through a short section where we saw mainly ski lodges and motels and began to wonder where the "scenic" part was, but once past that we were treated to some pretty spectacular views of the White Mountains.

 The white mountains under a bit of a haze.

There were some new sections of pavement, and new guardrails, and we wondered if these were repairs due to storm damage from hurricane Irene. The sections were very short, and the road leading right up to and beyond was of very good quality. On one of the stop there was evidence that hurricane Irene did indeed do some damage here. A buckled and partially washed out path and overturned bench not yet repaired.

 Flood damage, likely from Irene.

Near the end of the Kancamagus highway we stopped to visit two covered bridges. Both are restored, and being maintained in tip-top shape. Later we ran into a third by pure change, but this one was not open to cars.

 Why all this trouble? The bridge may last up to 6 times longer!

Once off the Kancamagus highway we followed a scenic route planned by the photographer. As we got closer to the coast, the trees and shrubs seemed to change. We began to see more and more pine among the trees, and the short vegetation by the side of the road changed. The area also seemed to become gradually more affluent, the houses bigger and more elaborately decorated and landscaped.

Hydrangea trees were in bloom everywhere, and the average size is much larger than in Ottawa. The area where we stayed in Kennebunkport is wooded, hilly and the streets are narrow and winding. We arrived at the cottage grounds at around 16:00, and unloaded our stuff. The cottage is a marvel of organization in about 12 by 18 feet. A full bathroom and two closets are neatly hidden in corners, and a kitchenette with fridge and dishwasher sits along the rear wall. Space with baskets exists under the bed and built in sofa.

The Ebb Tide, aka Chez Cutie Patootie

After unloading and organizing our stuff we went in search of an early dinner. The meals during the day including breakfast had consisted of snacks at coffee shops only. On the recommendation of the cottage manager, we went to pier 77. We split an appetizer of crab cakes, and then he had pasta with chicken and I had mussels.  Nothing was ordinary in this meal. The flavours and seasonings were so well chosen, it was truly an outstanding meal.

After this we were worn out from the traveling, and hit the pillow relatively early.

Of mills and mushrooms

Vacation finally came, and not a moment too soon. We were pretty exhausted by the time it came around, and we did next to nothing for the first two days. We slept late, read a lot, and maybe took a walk. Then we got a little energy back, and did a little yard work, and went for a bike ride.

I like vacation this time of year. The heat waves are over, and despite the higher risk of rain than in August, it is generally very pleasant to be outside. Most places you visit are also less busy as kids are back in school.

So far we have been trying to get a big dose of "vitamin G" this vacation. That's my expression for relaxing in nature, with G for green. We know summer is on its last legs. So aside from puttering in the yard, so far we have been to Gatineau Park a number of times to hike some of the trails.

Wilsons Carbide Mill

The first hike took us to the abandoned Wilson Carbide mill in the Meech Lake area of the park. It was an overcast day, perfect for a brisk walk with some changes in terrain and elevation. It was also the first time I've had to put on jeans as well as a hoodie due to the cooler temperature. So off we went with granola bars and water bottles in the backpack, and drove to the O'Brien Beech parking area in the park. From the trail's parking area, it is a good half hour brisk hike to the mill ruins. The path is relatively narrow, and on two occasions at the start of the trail, we had to step off the path to let park employees in vehicles pass. Later we were in an area vehicles can't reach. The woods are dense, and on a few occasions when it began to rain, you would hear it on the leaves overhead, but you would not get wet.

 Everywhere there were signs that it is the end of the season. We encountered no other hikers the whole day. Trees were still green, but much of the green looked tired, and  some leaves were falling around us. The first yellow was visible here and there. On the ground, fallen trees were being "recycled" by mushrooms.

Mushrooms on a fallen tree trunk.......

and these spectacular beauties.

After a wile we came to the place where Meech Lake connects with Little Meech Lake. A dam of sorts is used to regulate the water levels in both lakes, and the photographer walked out onto part of the causeway to take some shots of the running water.

Yes, half the feet are off the wall and unsupported. How does he do this?

After this brief stop we continued on the path. As we got closer to the place were the ruined mill stands we began to hear some water running. The photographer had been here in early July, and we'd had a lot of rain in May and June, and so he remarked that the water volume was now significantly less, and somewhat less spectacular. First we climbed onto the control dam next to the mill. Its structure is solid, but its surface has been worn significantly by time and seasons.

Control dam for the mill

 The area is very overgrown. It was not really possible to take pictures of the mill and the dam in the same frame. We hiked down the slope to the ruined building. Only the concrete shell of the building still stands. It must have had two floors when it was in use, but the I-beams supporting the floor have been cut away. A large round intake shows where the water came into the (now missing) turbine, and similarly there is a round hole in the floor, close off with mesh and almost hidden beneath debris,  where the water must have exited. All the windows' glass is long gone, and the frames are now under nature's assault. 

Detail of a decaying window frame.

In contrast to the rest of the trail, we did find some litter here. People seem to come here to party. There were some beer cans, and a bottle, as well as glass fragments from other beer bottles. Next to the mill is this contraption with its two "exits", obviously made to separate "something from something somehow".

No idea how this was used, and no, that's not my beer!

There is one information board at the mill, but it does not tell you anything about the carbide production, only about the owner, and the time it was in use.We hung around the mill for a while, and climbed all over the various surfaces around it and inside it.  The building seems to be sweating out some kind of calcium compound from its walls, still after so many years of standing idle.

A little mushroom, with a big ruined mill behind it. 

We hiked our way back to the parking lot, got back in the car and drove out of the park. On the last stretch of road out of the park, a deer stood by the side of the road, giving us a direct look. Of course we were not quite quick enough with the camera. But it did not seem scared at all. It continued to graze a few feet from the road while we got out and took this picture.

Spot the white tail!

Lauriault Trail

The next hike was the Lauriault trail, two days later. A 5 km hike with a waterfall and passing close by Kingsmere via a small detour. Kingsmere is the former estate of William Lyon McKenzie King, who was prime minister of Canada for a total of 22 years between 1921 and 1948. He left the estate to the crown, and all but one building are now open to the public. In his garden he built fake ruins, so it looks as if a church once stood there. There is also a tearoom, which I understand is rather expensive.

It was quite a bit warmer that day, and shorts and t-shirts were needed. At first we hiked along the edge of an escarpment with boulders more than 6 feet in diameter perched on the cliff edge of the trail, and spectacular view of the valley beyond. Then the path veered into the woods, in an area where it is likely pretty wet in spring, because at various points boardwalk and small bridges have been installed. The ground underneath was dry, however.

After a while we did see a little stream, and began to think we were perhaps coming closer to the waterfall. Of course as soon as there are rocks, people make stone sculptures, no matter how small.

Small stream, pretty green.

We continued on, and on this trail we passed many other hikers. Eventually we came to a fork in the trail with a sign directing us to the waterfall 600 m away. Unfortunately once we arrived at the bench facing the waterfall, it was not there. There were a few drop trickling down, indicating where the fall might run, but it appeared to have the day off. (Perhaps we should return in May.) Once back at the fork, we noticed the other side of the sign. Clearly we were not the only ones recently disappointed by this.

Le sentier sans chute - harder to edit.......

The trail had constant changes in elevation, but it was wide, and seemed to be very popular. We decided against detouring through Kingsmere, as we have been there before, and it is nicer when the leaves are all in colour. 

Once back in the car and on our way out of the park, we stopped in at the parking area for the very first (Hickory) trail, to see if it would be interesting. (no, 0.5 Km only) As we were pulling out of that parking area and onto the road, a black bear lumbered out of the woods on the other side of the road, and stared straight at us through the windshield. Again the camera was on the backseat, and while the photographer dug behind him, a second bear appeared behind the first one.  At that moment a bicyclist came along the road in the opposite direction, and scared the bears into going back into the woods. So no picture, not even through the windshield.  Bummer!

Black bears are supposed to be shy, and unlike grizzlies rarely attack hikers. They are easy to scare off with loud sounds and by staying in groups. Nevertheless, it looked at us as if to say "what are you doing in my park, human?"

Pink Lake

The next day we had apparently still not had enough, and headed back into the park to Pink lake. The lake is green, due to algae, but land nearby was once owned by the Pink family, and therefore it has this confusing name. Pink lake is special, because it lies in a valley, and the wind does not mix the water. The lower layers are therefore home to some microbes that use sulpher for photosynthesis instead of oxygen. Sediment is supposed to contain a record of the last 10,000 years of plant and fish life because nothing decomposes. Of course to get at that without mixing the water is impossible.

Pink lake, supposedly green, yet a pretty blue in this shot.

This is a popular trail too, and stairs and boardwalks are installed in certain sections. About a third of the way you find three old shafts for mica mines that once operated here. The trail there glitters as if there is broken glass on it, but in fact this is mica, and thin flakes can be picked up easily. They look like shards of thin hard plastic.

We looked down the old mine shafts as best as we could, some impressive fences have been installed. The glitter in the earth is easily located, but it was much harder to photograph.

Glitter of mica in the earth.
 

Three other shafts are supposed to exist nearby, but they are either off the path or filled back in so no accidents happen. A little bit further the trail came close to the water's edge again, and the angle of the sun allowed us to see how clear and yet how green it is. 

A little piece of unspoiled nature.

Next we came to the halfway point where we saw a big area of water lilies. There are often bullfrogs there, but they were completely quiet this time.  A pity, you would not think such a small creature could make so much noise. Every few minutes we saw chipmunks close by the path, but never close enough, and never long enough to get a shot.

We had arrived early and were the first on this trail, but now it started to get busy, with many people going in opposite direction. We picked up the pace and finished the second half in less time. When we came to the parking area, the lot which was empty when we arrived, was completely full, and cars were (illegally) parked along the road.

We drove up to check out the trail at the Champlain lookout for next time, and on the way down we had yet another undocumented animal moment. A doe crossed the road lazily in front of us from right to left, and then moments later her fawn came out of the woods and followed her. The fawn was kind of gangly, and the back was all spotted. It stopped at the other side of the road and stared straight at us,big ears sticking out to the side. (These animals gossip together, obviously.) Before we could take a shot, a bicyclist came in the opposite direction, and the fawn was gone in a flash.

What will see see next time?

Lake Ontario, the other end

I like to talk about how much I like the Niagara region, at the west end of Lake Ontario. Orchards, wineries, B&B's, the natural beauty of the escarpement, and yes, the falls. But if you go looking closer to home, you can find some pretty stuff, in plain sight, or a little hidden.

In the last week or so it seems that the heatwaves have ended. It has gone down to as low as 12 degrees at night from time to time, and a few times the car has already been soaking wet with condensation in the morning. The 16th we had real life thick fog. All that to say that even though it is still shorts-and-t-shirt weather, and still hits high 20's most afternoons, summer is on its last legs and winter clothes are in the stores.

We're getting some more rain and the beige lawn is becoming green again. There was no keeping up with watering it after they lifted the watering ban. It was so hot that it turned the colour of a desert, and the texture of a doormat. Good for me, it made it easier to try to get more of the ivy out.

Our vacation will not happen until the two weeks starting labour day.  But in the mean time we have gotten more used to the heat. We decided that  we wanted to make a few excursions here and there, and stretch the legs on the new car. So, on a stifling hot Saturday the second weekend in August, we drove along the shore of the St-Lawrence river and via the 1000 Islands Parkway to Kingston, the gateway to Lake Ontario.

Kingston has a pretty core made up of old limestone buildings. At various points it was anything from an important fur-trading place to the capital of what was then the province of Canada. It always was, and still is an important military installation. On the lake there are three Martello towers as well as Fort Henry, and there is CFB Kingston just east of that. There is a large student population due to the presence of Queens University, and this in turn makes for a great mix of shops on Princess Street where you can find anything from the Gap to bong stores.

Often it is a little cooler there, as the wind blows almost straight off the lake onto Princess Street, which is diagonal to it. But not this time! A closed sky hung over the city and you could lean against the humidity. There was no wind at all. After a visit to our favourite stores, (always including this one) we settled in an air conditioned place with free wi-fi, for an ice tea and sandwich. Once sufficiently restored we made our way back to the car and passed by the market, where I believe you could actually hear vegetables wilt.

Market in front of (actually behind) Town Hall, under closed in sky. 

We made our way back home via the back roads, and put on the geriatric air conditioner. The next day was equally not suited for gardening, so we went out again and followed the Rideau River south stopping at the water's edge a number of times to take pictures, and eventually ending up in Merrickville. This time there was a breeze on the water, and we sat, relaxed and watched boaters go by.

In Burrits Rapids we discovered a pretty little community on a small island, with many of the old homes beautifully restored and maintained. We found a church converted to a house, and it was for sale. (Try this link if it still works, for the listing with pictures of the inside.)

Unique "house" in Burrits Rapids.

At the lock we saw ferns growing "underground" and deep orange sunflowers. It must be due to some mineral in the soil?

Ferns happily growing in the bypass. Good luck weeding that!

Naturally like that or orange due to some mineral?

August 20th we went into upper New York State to shop, but once we reached Watertown, we found that there was a bit of a breeze, and  it was too nice to be inside, and thus we changed our minds. After a quick stop at Border's closing sale and lunch at the Olive Garden, we drove west following the Black river to the shore of Lake Ontario. After a while we reached Dexter, a village which is probably largely unchanged in the last 50 years or more. Wikipedia says it was voted the worst town in America with a population under 500, but it has a population of 1120? (New math!) It did not look that bad to me, it had a "gently used" theme.

Folded paper under at least one leg of each piece of furniture!

This corner coffee shop truly fits its corner.

Why don't we have one of these in Manotick?

There was a wedding going on in the park's gazebo, and there were some abandoned industrial buildings to keep the photographer busy. After a while we move on further towards the lake. We see wild turkeys that barely step out of the road for the car, and overhead we keep seeing birds of prey soar. (Likely turkey vultures.) On the road towards Cape Vincent we see big gorgeous clumps of silver birches.

Silver birches. It looks as if edited with photoshop.

Once at Cape Vincent, we are across the water from Wolfe Island, which lies in the entrance to the St-Lawrence River in front of Kingston. In the last few years a large number of wind turbines have been built on Wolfe Island, and we usually see them from the shore in Kingston. Here we see them from the other side, and see how hazy it actually is.

Wind turbines on Wolfe Island 

The area is clearly one that has an economy based on farming, summer camping and water sports, without being so overtly touristy. It must be that it is too far out of the way of major urban centers for that. Farms line the roads, and everywhere are signs pointing to boat launches, parks and campsites. But there are no restaurants or souvenir-junk type stores. Along the shore is a mixture of summer cottages and year round properties, as well as some beautiful old houses that you would perhaps expect in Virginia instead.

 This beauty sat like a Queen on its large lot, just like this next one

Tell me again how much trouble a property like this would be........

Signs along the road keep mentioning Tibbits Point, so we follow them to see what it is. It turns out the be the first lighthouse in Jefferson County, and a pretty stop to boot. The house is now a hostel, but it seems the lighthouse still operates, as well as huge foghorns mounted on a small building you can just see hidden behind the trees to the right of the lighthouse. They are clearly visible on the website's pictures.

Tibbits Point lighthouse

The shore from the observation platform at Tibbits Point

Eventually we made our way back to Clayton, and then took the tiny piece of interstate highway that took us to the border. The Canada Customs agent did not appreciate the idea that there is much pretty country to see in the area, and questioned why we were in the United States for 6 hours, and had spent only $23 on books. Only when he was told that between the two of us we had taken fifty-something photos, did he wave us through. I think he needs to go look himself.

In the mean time, the next day in the street behind us we find the first evidence that our nemesis will return........

August 21st, and there are some  fall colours already!