Lake Ontario, the other end

I like to talk about how much I like the Niagara region, at the west end of Lake Ontario. Orchards, wineries, B&B's, the natural beauty of the escarpement, and yes, the falls. But if you go looking closer to home, you can find some pretty stuff, in plain sight, or a little hidden.

In the last week or so it seems that the heatwaves have ended. It has gone down to as low as 12 degrees at night from time to time, and a few times the car has already been soaking wet with condensation in the morning. The 16th we had real life thick fog. All that to say that even though it is still shorts-and-t-shirt weather, and still hits high 20's most afternoons, summer is on its last legs and winter clothes are in the stores.

We're getting some more rain and the beige lawn is becoming green again. There was no keeping up with watering it after they lifted the watering ban. It was so hot that it turned the colour of a desert, and the texture of a doormat. Good for me, it made it easier to try to get more of the ivy out.

Our vacation will not happen until the two weeks starting labour day.  But in the mean time we have gotten more used to the heat. We decided that  we wanted to make a few excursions here and there, and stretch the legs on the new car. So, on a stifling hot Saturday the second weekend in August, we drove along the shore of the St-Lawrence river and via the 1000 Islands Parkway to Kingston, the gateway to Lake Ontario.

Kingston has a pretty core made up of old limestone buildings. At various points it was anything from an important fur-trading place to the capital of what was then the province of Canada. It always was, and still is an important military installation. On the lake there are three Martello towers as well as Fort Henry, and there is CFB Kingston just east of that. There is a large student population due to the presence of Queens University, and this in turn makes for a great mix of shops on Princess Street where you can find anything from the Gap to bong stores.

Often it is a little cooler there, as the wind blows almost straight off the lake onto Princess Street, which is diagonal to it. But not this time! A closed sky hung over the city and you could lean against the humidity. There was no wind at all. After a visit to our favourite stores, (always including this one) we settled in an air conditioned place with free wi-fi, for an ice tea and sandwich. Once sufficiently restored we made our way back to the car and passed by the market, where I believe you could actually hear vegetables wilt.

Market in front of (actually behind) Town Hall, under closed in sky. 

We made our way back home via the back roads, and put on the geriatric air conditioner. The next day was equally not suited for gardening, so we went out again and followed the Rideau River south stopping at the water's edge a number of times to take pictures, and eventually ending up in Merrickville. This time there was a breeze on the water, and we sat, relaxed and watched boaters go by.

In Burrits Rapids we discovered a pretty little community on a small island, with many of the old homes beautifully restored and maintained. We found a church converted to a house, and it was for sale. (Try this link if it still works, for the listing with pictures of the inside.)

Unique "house" in Burrits Rapids.

At the lock we saw ferns growing "underground" and deep orange sunflowers. It must be due to some mineral in the soil?

Ferns happily growing in the bypass. Good luck weeding that!

Naturally like that or orange due to some mineral?

August 20th we went into upper New York State to shop, but once we reached Watertown, we found that there was a bit of a breeze, and  it was too nice to be inside, and thus we changed our minds. After a quick stop at Border's closing sale and lunch at the Olive Garden, we drove west following the Black river to the shore of Lake Ontario. After a while we reached Dexter, a village which is probably largely unchanged in the last 50 years or more. Wikipedia says it was voted the worst town in America with a population under 500, but it has a population of 1120? (New math!) It did not look that bad to me, it had a "gently used" theme.

Folded paper under at least one leg of each piece of furniture!

This corner coffee shop truly fits its corner.

Why don't we have one of these in Manotick?

There was a wedding going on in the park's gazebo, and there were some abandoned industrial buildings to keep the photographer busy. After a while we move on further towards the lake. We see wild turkeys that barely step out of the road for the car, and overhead we keep seeing birds of prey soar. (Likely turkey vultures.) On the road towards Cape Vincent we see big gorgeous clumps of silver birches.

Silver birches. It looks as if edited with photoshop.

Once at Cape Vincent, we are across the water from Wolfe Island, which lies in the entrance to the St-Lawrence River in front of Kingston. In the last few years a large number of wind turbines have been built on Wolfe Island, and we usually see them from the shore in Kingston. Here we see them from the other side, and see how hazy it actually is.

Wind turbines on Wolfe Island 

The area is clearly one that has an economy based on farming, summer camping and water sports, without being so overtly touristy. It must be that it is too far out of the way of major urban centers for that. Farms line the roads, and everywhere are signs pointing to boat launches, parks and campsites. But there are no restaurants or souvenir-junk type stores. Along the shore is a mixture of summer cottages and year round properties, as well as some beautiful old houses that you would perhaps expect in Virginia instead.

 This beauty sat like a Queen on its large lot, just like this next one

Tell me again how much trouble a property like this would be........

Signs along the road keep mentioning Tibbits Point, so we follow them to see what it is. It turns out the be the first lighthouse in Jefferson County, and a pretty stop to boot. The house is now a hostel, but it seems the lighthouse still operates, as well as huge foghorns mounted on a small building you can just see hidden behind the trees to the right of the lighthouse. They are clearly visible on the website's pictures.

Tibbits Point lighthouse

The shore from the observation platform at Tibbits Point

Eventually we made our way back to Clayton, and then took the tiny piece of interstate highway that took us to the border. The Canada Customs agent did not appreciate the idea that there is much pretty country to see in the area, and questioned why we were in the United States for 6 hours, and had spent only $23 on books. Only when he was told that between the two of us we had taken fifty-something photos, did he wave us through. I think he needs to go look himself.

In the mean time, the next day in the street behind us we find the first evidence that our nemesis will return........

August 21st, and there are some  fall colours already!